Aubry

Very unique Champagnes and among the best pink-fizz in the entire region. Be ready to have your mind expanded! Given the breadth of the range, it’s hard to make shift with a few telling descriptors. They are flowery and high-flying Champagnes, rather like a cross of Chartogne and Chiquet, but not exactly similar to either. Class, depth and detail are abundant. They are graceful, even when they’re intense. As Aubrys use concentrated must instead of sugar for their dosage, the palate “reads” the sweetness differently. There’s more of a fructose texture, a clotted-cream kind of grip. I find these Champagnes alternately lovable and impressive, and occasionally both.

The Aubry estate is in the village of Jouy-les-Reims in the western part of the Montagne de Reims. Twin borthers Pierre and Philippe farm parcels in the limestone and clay soils of Jouy, as well as sites in three other premiere cru villages: Pargny-les-Reims, Villedommange, and Coulommes-la-Montagne.

Aubry also farms one and a half hectares of ancient grape varieties still permitted by A.O.C. law. Their plantings of Petit Mesilier, Fromenteau (Pinot Gris) and Arbanne were completed in 1989 to mark the 200 year aniversary of grape growing by the Aubry family. Aubry makes two different cuvees to showcase these rare grapes. The Le Novembre d’Or Veteres Vites blends all seven permissible grapes in the Champagne Appelation: Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc Petit Mesleir, Arbanne, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay. The Blanc de Blanc Le November d’Or Sable Brut blends Petit Meslier, Arbanne and Chardonnay all from parcels in Jouy-les-Reims. Sable is named for the French word for fettle or fine, referring to this cuvee’s lower atmospheric pressure; four atmospheres, rather than the normal six.

Aubry NV Brut Label

Producer website

Available Wines

2008 Aubry de Humbert, Brut

‘Aubry de Humbert’ is the basic vintage wine from L. Aubry Fils, and is named for the bishop who laid the cornerstone for the Reims cathedral. The grapes come from vineyards in Jouy-les-Reims and Villedommange.

Aubry 2007 Aubry de Humbert, Brut

Aubry 2012 ‘Le Nombre d’Or’ Brut

It uses all the white grapes (hence Blanc des Blancs), deg 10/2015, zero dosage, and “Sablé” is heir word for a lower-pressure Champagne—4 instead of 6 atmospheres.
For me this and the Sablé Rosé are the Aubry archetypes. Understand these, and you grok them. This one has mouthsfull of salty raw dough and wonderful savory exotic length. Wet straw and haricot vert.

Aubry N.V. Brut

Deg 1/2015, 50% 2012 and 50% the “perpetual reserve” that goes back to 1998. Still 45% Meunier, 25% CH, 25% PN and 5% “other.” (This was done one year when there was more “other” than could fill a tank, so the excess was put into the NV, and they liked it, not to mention it’s the only NV Brut in Champagne with Arbanne and Petit Meslier in the mix.)

Meunier expresses here as barley, rusks, crackers, and so the wine is rusky, saline, iodé, mineral and appetizing. That’s the paradigm, at any rate. The fragrance of this years edition is back in form, or mostly—the little bit of ’11 in the reserve wine is, let’s say, not invisible. But the ripeness of ’12 nearly blankets it; otherwise it’s the briny coppery wine we know and love.  ~Terry Theise

Aubry N.V. Brut Rosé

All 2012. And, you know, YES! We smell fruit. A lot of fruit. Fruit and silk and chalk duke it out in a hyperactive twitchy dance, and the finish is like the skins of blackberries. It’s 55% CH, 30% PN and 15% Meunier as still red, and the dosage is a whopping 3g/l. “It’s almost too sweet for me,” said Philippe. Well huh, ‘cause this is still pretty frickin’ dry. ~Terry Theise

Aubry N.V. Brut [1/3000]

Deg 1/2015, 50% 2012 and 50% the “perpetual reserve” that goes back to 1998. Still 45% Meunier, 25% CH, 25% PN and 5% “other.” (This was done one year when there was more “other” than could fill a tank, so the excess was put into the NV, and they liked it, not to mention it’s the only NV Brut in Champagne with Arbanne and Petit Meslier in the mix.)

Meunier expresses here as barley, rusks, crackers, and so the wine is rusky, saline, iodé, mineral and appetizing. That’s the paradigm, at any rate. The fragrance of this years edition is back in form, or mostly—the little bit of ’11 in the reserve wine is, let’s say, not invisible. But the ripeness of ’12 nearly blankets it; otherwise it’s the briny coppery wine we know and love. ~Terry Theise

Aubry N.V. Le Nombre d’Or Brut

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