Very unique Champagnes and among the best pink-fizz in the entire region. Be ready to have your mind expanded! Given the breadth of the range, it’s hard to make shift with a few telling descriptors. They are flowery and high-flying Champagnes, rather like a cross of Chartogne and Chiquet, but not exactly similar to either. Class, depth and detail are abundant. They are graceful, even when they’re intense. As Aubrys use concentrated must instead of sugar for their dosage, the palate “reads” the sweetness differently. There’s more of a fructose texture, a clotted-cream kind of grip. I find these Champagnes alternately lovable and impressive, and occasionally both.

The Aubry estate is in the village of Jouy-les-Reims in the western part of the Montagne de Reims. Twin borthers Pierre and Philippe farm parcels in the limestone and clay soils of Jouy, as well as sites in three other premiere cru villages: Pargny-les-Reims, Villedommange, and Coulommes-la-Montagne.

Aubry also farms one and a half hectares of ancient grape varieties still permitted by A.O.C. law. Their plantings of Petit Mesilier, Fromenteau (Pinot Gris) and Arbanne were completed in 1989 to mark the 200 year aniversary of grape growing by the Aubry family. Aubry makes two different cuvees to showcase these rare grapes. The Le Novembre d’Or Veteres Vites blends all seven permissible grapes in the Champagne Appelation: Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc Petit Mesleir, Arbanne, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay. The Blanc de Blanc Le November d’Or Sable Brut blends Petit Meslier, Arbanne and Chardonnay all from parcels in Jouy-les-Reims. Sable is named for the French word for fettle or fine, referring to this cuvee’s lower atmospheric pressure; four atmospheres, rather than the normal six.

Aubry NV Brut Label

Producer website

Available Wines

2008 Aubry de Humbert, Brut

‘Aubry de Humbert’ is the basic vintage wine from L. Aubry Fils, and is named for the bishop who laid the cornerstone for the Reims cathedral. The grapes come from vineyards in Jouy-les-Reims and Villedommange.

Aubry 2012 Sable Rosé

Sans dosage. Deg 2/2016, it’s 25% “black grapes” plus 10% CH, 25% Arbanne, 25% Petit Meslier, 10% Pinot Blanc plus “a little red stuff.” A glorious aroma of 2012; without dosage it gets crackery and dried-beefy, but with a rich florality and fraisesde- bois coming in. Far from a rad hipster novelty—this also tastes good. – Terry Theise