Charm and value typify these wines. Clean, cultured-yeast wines with lots of primary fruit, yet aging superbly. The Veltliners are zingy and spicy; in soft years like 2000 they have a winsome ‘sweet’ vegetality (the red beet aspect); in years like 2001 they have more lift and cut. Cultured yeasts give them all a similar profile; fresh, long in middle and finish, polished, with a finely doughy aftertaste; clean, pure through and through, vital, frisky and crisp.
This is a father/son estate of fourteen hectares. Half of the land consists of south-facing loess terraces with locally renowned names. Vines are Riesling, Veltliner, Pinot Blanc and the “C” word. There’s some land on the Gedersdorf plateau that’s planted to red varieties. All the wines are made dry, of course. They use cultured yeasts to get slow fermentations and to preserve the utmost CO2. Berger is all stainless steel, of course. Technology for controlling fermentation temperatures, by no means universal in Austria, has been in use here since 1990.
CORE-LIST WINE. I’ve wanted to do this a long time. This wine is an archetype of the terraces sites of the section of Kremstal near the Danube. It is always delicious. It’s Erich’s best seller. It represents both him and his region perfectly, it tastes wonderful and it’s a classic. This ’13 is super-charming with typical lentil-sorrel notes, lovely filigree minerality and excellent grip. ~Terry Theise
It’s round fresh and juicy with a sense of raw bacon; excellent quality in its echelon. ~Terry Theise
Some “exotic” aromas over the classic loess profile; super peppery and charred, pulverized stone and gravelly tannin; it’s intense, not gracious, with a stony finish. An ambience of botrytis has made it atypical, but it’s also very good. ~Terry Theise
As a rule this is Erich’s “lesser” Riesling (the Steingraben is his premium wine), but there is no Steingraben in ’15 thanks to hail,
and, well, this is 2015, and this is some excellent wine! Interlocking cool and warm tones, green and silver and sapid Spring
leaves and water gleaming off a pebbly stream; the tiny amount of RS is hugely helpful. It reminds me of old vintages of Knoll’s
Loibenberg Federspiel; complex, very long, a stylish delicious Riesling.