This ancient family firm has become a dependable source for some heart-warmingly traditional examples of Alsace wines. They are full-flavored, varietally distinct and properly dry. They offer a price-quality ratio that is hard to beat.
Boeckel own significant holdings in the Grand Cru vineyards of Zotzenberg and Wibelsberg, but it is this more modest lieu-dit which is the jewel in their crown, consistently offering the grandest and finest Riesling of the house, that is never released without several years of bottle age. In the great 2012 vintage, it offers everything you could ask for : tenderness, power, discretion, beauty, balance.
Mittelbergheim is famous for Sylvaner. Indeed, its celebrated Zotzenberg is the only Alsatian vineyard accorded Grand Cru status for this Cinderella grape. This cuvée comes from Boeckel’s large holdings in that cru and its surroundings and displays not just the charm and freshness one expects but unexpected hints of power and gravitas, too.
Delicious is the only word that comes to mind when drinking this wine, with all the uncomplicated pleasure that that implies. Dry, but not too dry, bursting with berried Pinot charm and dangerously easy to drink.
You will perk up eagerly at the first whiff of the textbook Gewurz nose. The improved viticulture manifests itself in the uncommonly spicy palate, while the wine’s rich texture but reduced sucrosity make it a betterthan-ever match for the traditional Asian fare and smoked fish.
Pinot Noir has become increasingly important to cellar-master, Thomas Boeckel, and it is clear that he has grand aspirations for the grape, perhaps inspired by the examples of Baden, grown a few kilometers to the east. Climate change has certainly enabled him to conjure more sheer fruit sweetness from his grapes than was the case in years past. But life would be boring if Alsace did not bring its own sinewy and incisive style to this most popular and challenging of varieties. The organic farming practices certainly help to extract a cavalcade
of salty flavours in the tail. Impressive and distinctive.
Pending tasting notes