There is a strange duality in the world of Bordeaux. Its top wines command huge prices and are regarded more as status symbols than beverages, while thousands of petits châteaux struggle to survive in a world which often seems to have passed them by. We have always had a sneaking affection for the Graves, whose singular wines have always had a special claim on the affections of Bordeaux connoisseurs. We were therefore delighted to be introduced to this small estate, founded by the grandfather of current proprietor Jean-François Lespinasse, whose wines offer an unforced yet pleasurable authenticity at reasonable prices. The domaine is situated at La Brède, famous home of Montesquieu just to the south of Pessac-Léognan.