Monique and Tessa Laroche, the charming mother and daughter team who run this pocket-sized (2500 cases) estate in La Roche Aux Moines (an appellation now with all of five proprietors), evidently have little need to make a living. How else to explain the mind-boggling fact that they continue to offer many vintages back to 1992 in commercial quantities? All the more amazing in view of the exemplary quality of the wines. Now, after an adulatory review from David Schildknecht in a well-known wine journal, everybody wants them. Ans as of the 2010 Vintage the Domaine is certified organic. We are delighted to be able to offer an older vintage that showd off the aging potential of this great wine.
This vintage is the latest to have crossed over to what one might describe as its tertiary stage. There is a smoky quality to the aroma that does not exactly prepare you for the delicious fusion of marmalade fruit and piquant minerality on the palate, nor the intriguing chocolate nuance in the tail. A poetic wine that offers endlessly changing stimulation.
This new wine comes from a recently acquired parcel of Chenin outside the appellation but still in a highly favoured locale. Deliberately made in an easier style than the Roche-Aux-Moines, it nonetheless enjoys a fruit endowment in this lavish vintage that suggests a capacity for aging, if one has the fortitude to resist the siren call of its youth. Gorgeously floral, it is a picture of prettiness.
Modern Savennières is a richer, more declamatory wine than its forebears. But when endowed with this kind of fruit purity and inherent balance, it can be ranked among the world’s truly important white wines. As always, it shines at table when its potent amalgam of flavours and textures play off the partnership of food. The special joy of the 2011 is its incisiveness and deftness in the context of the modern idiom.