Wines of exceptional clarity, incisive detail, high-definition obsessive nuance, fresh vitality, and most of all charm and deliciousness. It’s not the same sort of charm we see in Setzer, whose wines are more cashmere-textured, but it is something of great good humor that elevates the wines from mere correctness. You may think this estate is “obscure” but inside Austria it is gulped away with hyperactive haste, and we feel very lucky to have scored it.
Again completely yummy and more than 1-dimensional; black cherry, cherry-tobacco, roasted red beet, and as always, absurd value.
HARD-CORE LIST WINE. In shaping this offering I often pass this wine by, but not in 2013; it’s too good. Utter ivy and bay leaf and wonderful minerality, a primary-rock GV at its most ridiculously charming. High-elevation (330 meters) and old-ish vines (30 years). ~Terry Theise
Though I show it first we actually taste it last, after the biggest GVs, not as a palate re-set but rather to test just how good it is. And this ’14 is shockingly good. The spread from top-to-bottom is narrower here in 2014, and this is almost sad, it’s so tempting. Its modest “stature” is only indicated by the quick finish. Please remember, always, that the truest measure of a winery is not what it delivers to the person spending a lot of money, but to the person spending just a little. ~Terry Theise
Though I show it first we actually taste it last, after the big guys that precede it, not as a palate-reset but to show how it holds up. This joins the Setzer as the two snappiest of the ’15 Liters; it’s tensile and streamlined, pointed and brisk, with flavors of caraway seed. It isn’t rich but it’s also perfectly ripe. ~Terry Theise