This relatively large domaine (55 hectares, or 136 acres) has unbroken family history going back to the 18th century. One of the first French producers to adopt bio-dynamic practices in the 1980’s, it makes an impressive range of wines from several Anjou appellations. We have been especially impressed with their reds, which are made without additional sulfites, fining or filtration.
The schistous soils impart an extra degree of structure and power. Aged for nine months in third-year barriques, the wine shows a lovely fusion of Franc’s floral tones and its earthy strength, fully ripe, yet sporting just 11.6% alcohol. Wines like this should make true believers of all sceptics about the bio-dynamic way.
Named after the Bourgueil abbott who adopted the grape in the 18th century, this is a wonderfully expressive rendition that packs an improbable intensity into its light (11%) frame. Equal parts animal (think blood), vegetable (floral scent) and mineral (think pulsating saltiness in the tail), this is a brilliant miniature that, in its own quiet voice, has far more to say than many powerhouse wines that leap from the glass with stentorian announcements.
This stalwart wine forms an interesting bridge between the perfumed varietality of the Cabernet Breton and the rugged strength of “L’Ancrie”. An entirely honest Loire red that blossoms with air and offers great pleasure.