Honorable traditional Rheinhessen estate energized with the arrival of a young lion, Johannes Geil-Bierschenk. Outstanding modern white wines at wonderfully reasonable prices. An emblem of the quixotic new generation in Rheinhessen.
Now up to the “village” level—and a couple things to say. One is, for somms searching for the unusual, this is a completely healthy and delicious wine that’ll give you some bragging rights. Two, though I’m usually tepid toward Silvaner, the 2015 alchemy of ripeness with structure are borderline miraculous for this variety. The wine itself…if the estate wine was reminiscent of Weinviertel, this one sends us to the Kremstal. He did it in hogsheads of which 30% were new; it’s markedly focused and long; ore-like; a bit looser-textured than GV but with a toasty gravelly finish.