Honorable traditional Rheinhessen estate energized with the arrival of a young lion, Johannes Geil-Bierschenk. Outstanding modern white wines at wonderfully reasonable prices. An emblem of the quixotic new generation in Rheinhessen.
The drier of two versions I tasted. Cox-orange and white peach to begin, lime and orchid-oolong to end, and it extends its farewell a long-g-g time; the wine has wiggle but a stern no-nonsense finish.
This one shows orange and grapefruit with just a surmise of the claws of Scheu, but it’s much less sweet than before, and Scheu develops unpredictably; this is quince-paste and Manchego and elderflower right now. The site name is off the label because there’s a transition in origin for their Scheu, which they’re planting in a site more suitable for its special voodoo self.
More moderate and less catty than ’13, though also less mineral. Yet also not so steely. It’s spicier though, with lots of basil oil and a kind of sweet metal—I know, “sweet metal?”—what did I mean by that?? Maybe a kind of thyme and fennel and radish thing? Dunno. I like the wine; it’s adorable and frisky. ~Terry Theise