This is a father-son domaine producing Champagnes of the utmost integrity, and they are full-tilt YUMMY at the same time they are taken absolutely seriously by their makers. I cannot offer you a wine better than the best of these; no one can. Most of the practices here will be familiar to you; fruit-thinning in July, only manual harvesting, environmentally gentle handling of the vineyards. Once the grapes are harvested, Geoffroys press in a traditional Coquard press, slow and gentle, but rarely seen any more because of its low productivity and the physically taxing work it entails. Red-grape dominated cuvées from a locally warm microclimate create thrilling, vibrant, fruity Champagnes. Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy is the most fanatical wine-freak I know in Champagne and his wines reflect his enthusiasm.
The Geoffroy family has been growing grapes in the village of Cumieres since the 1600s where the majority (11 hectares) of their 14 hectares are planted. The remainder is planted to pinot munier in the village of Fleury-la-Riviere and a few small lots in the village of Damery. All of the individual parcels are vinified separately; all are fermented in enameled stainless steel, and some lots go into oak foudre.
One of this year’s sleepers: try not to miss it. 79% PN, 15% Meunier, 6% CH, deg 12/2014, and it has the proper dosage and could have been called “Extra Brut.” The wine is stylish, classy, beautiful, combining the floral ’08, so wispy and lithe, with the red fruits and darker tertiaries of Cumières PN, and it will improve on the cork; all the hickory crusty smokiness of this terroir into a real demi-glace of vinosity. ~Terry Theise
All 2012, and as before it’s 50-50 PN/CH co-macerated, and in this vintage it starts to justify its price. Smells like those novella cucina strawberry-risotti you might remember, fruity-starchy. This is the first time I’ve groked his aim for this; it’s a rare kind of fruit-flower amalgam that recalls, actually, Cristal Rosé, though this is riotously more berried. Deg 2/2016. ~Terry Theise
Probably the best version of this wine I’ve ever tasted. Deg 2/2016, it will be sold to us in June. Amazingly it’s 57% 2012 and 43% ’11. 36% Meunier, 34% PN and 30% CH, much more than usual. It’s racy and salty and has zero pyrazine; an almost minty back-palate, a surprisingly silvery palate overall; a leap to a new level with this wine, among the few best NVs in the offering. Arrives “red” and departs “white.” 2012 is da man. Three things to bear in mind. One, most of the vineyards are in Cumières, and this is among the steepest and warmest communes in Champagne. Which leads to [two]; because of this, JB doesn’t do malo. The wines are ripe enough. Three, his Meunier is along lines of shiitake and soy yet this is wonderfully subtle in this assemblage, with all its Chardonnay. ~Terry Theise