If there’s a more interesting grower in this (or any) portfolio than Didier Gimonnet, I ain’t met him. Every visit I make here enriches me. His is a 25-hectare winery, therefore enough wine, which is good because it is VERY BEAUTIFUL WINE with great class and savor. And sensible prices! The wines are suave, creamy and refined, with a “soft” minerality dispersed through the fruit. Silky, stylish wines rather than vigorous, racy wines. These are very deliciously accommodating to the palate.
I suspect some of it might be due to old vines, which impart a palpable creaminess. The majority of Gimonnet’s vineyards are more than 40 years old, the oldest parcel (in Cramant) is more than 80. The wines tolerate a very low dosage, 6-8 grams per liter for most Bruts. “For me, we must have concentration, but also balance, elegance and harmony,” says Didier. ~Terry Theise
81% PN (from Aÿ and Mareuil) and 19% Chardonnay (of which 7% is Mareuil). I like this wine and hope Didier keeps making it, though it adds a line item in an already large offering. This ’08 is richer and “sweeter” than ’07, a more endomorphic body showing more PN than last year’s, but with the tightness and length of ’08. Sure it’s atypical Gimonnet but it’s also good Champagne. 81% PN (from Aÿ and Mareuil) and 19% Chardonnay (of which 7% is Mareuil). ~Terry Theise
The concept is a food-friendly Champagne by dint of a gentler mousse. It’s also in effect a “young vintage” but not the vintage. It tends to accent minerality; this assemblage is 38% Chouilly, 17% Cuis(Croix Blanche), 24% Cramant, 10% Oger and 11% Vertus. Deg. Oct 2nd 2015, it’s a slim cerebral Gastronome until the toasty mid-palate, which will start to dominate after time on the cork. It’s smokier, with more iron than usual. ~Terry Theise
Deg 12/17/2015, this will BE AVAILABLE IN SEPTEMBER, and is of course a radical departure for Gimonnet, a Club monoterroir. It hails from 54% Terres de Noël and Brulis, 23% Champs Nérons (chalk) and 23% Fondy (limestone). It’s a sexy-pants Champagne; it’s got wiggle; toasted brioche, allspice, sautéed peaches, but what really makes this fly is the underlying mineral, and a fascinating note of quince taps your shoulder just before it leaves. ~Terry Theise