Walter Glatzer is a miracle. An amazingly nice guy, making sensational wines and offering them at way down-to-earth prices; this isn’t, you know, an everyday occurrence! He’s also obsessively motivated to keep improving the wines, which he seems to do annually. Walter Glatzer’s doing a smart thing: holding stocks back so as to have 18 months worth of wine in the cellar, which in most cases means two vintages. This is especially good for the reds, which always bulk up with a year in bottle — even the “wee” ones.
Along with Berger these are the best values in this offering. And with steadily increasing quality, especially among the reds. Tight, reductively brilliant whites that should be poured by the glass at every restaurant in the universe!
Grown in sandy loam soils in Carnuntum, the 2011 Glatzer GV is consistently one of the best valued GrüVe’s in the portfolio. Expressive and riper in this vintage, it is serious at this stage, the kind you only taste at the estate, from the tank, and wish you could preserve. This is of a class akin to a single cru Kamptal wine and legitimately stupid to ignore.Tight, brilliant whites that should be poured BTG at every restaurant in the universe! TT
HARD-CORE LIST WINE. This is his best vintage ever of PN; it’s really ripe and juicy with a great suave length; dusty and slightly herbal, improving with each sip. The finish is rare duck, almost mineral; a long light wine that’s truly vinous, not merely fruity. ~Terry Theise
Round and varietal, ripe and generous, roses and plums and the crisp cheesy taters atop the gratin. ~Terry Theise
Crisp, snappy and even a little phenolic; has 13% but seems as crisp as a winter twig, though it starts to get tortilla-rich as it warms in the glass.
Can a red wine smell prettier than this? Or taste creamier, or more animally delicious? This is the utter best of the utter purity of simplicity. Yet don’t suppose it is “light” or slim; it is rich but directly fruity, and it is ridiculously attractive.
Quite full and marine, cool mussel and straw; snappy focus but creamy mouthfeel and with excellent length. Pretty serious for a light wine. ~Terry Theise
CORE-LIST WINE. Can a red wine smell prettier than this? Or taste creamier, or more animally delicious? This is the utter best of the utter purity of simplicity. Yet don’t suppose it is “light” or slim; it is rich but directly fruity, and it is ridiculously attractive. ~Terry Theise
Core List Wine. This normally textbook GV, excellent because it has no particular variations or special features, is another critter in 2014; remarkably mineral and delineated, a lot of ground-up-rock density, and a strong backbone (though it showed more fruit in the Riedel tulip albeit more overall flavor in Zalto); lighter in body but richer in structure and nuance than usual. ~Terry Theise
Perhaps the best-ever vintage for this “reserve” wine—Dornenvogel means “thorn bird,” and these avian marauders like to eat the ripest grapes. Thus the metaphor. There’s simply more here, more oils, more herbs, spices, complexity. Walter almost apologizes for its “lightness” but there’s so much packed into it, including really nice “sponti” (ambient-yeast fermented) notes. REPRESENTS AN ALMOST ABSURD VALUE. ~Terry Theise
Core List Wine. A beautiful sappy cherry aroma; the palate is succulent and more dense (and tannic) than usual; actually pretty serious stuff, with lots of mint and blackberries. I confess to being silly-sensitive to tannin, but that said I still hope this degree of tannin is an aberration of the vintage and not a harbinger of things to come. Many of you will disagree, and find this wine more compelling than it’s been. ~Terry Theise
Core List Wine. Sleek, tightly wound; violets and steel; the vintage stretches this wine into a taut tense string, less sapid and juicy than usual. The aromas are very fine and spicy and the palate is vibrating and snapping, but there is that tannin. Perhaps it will soften. ~Terry Theise