Big changes afoot as son Alexander Gysler takes control. The new wines are slimmed down, streamlined and modernized, jazzy and full of crispy, primary fruit. Prices, though, remain un-real for the time being! Eye-opening 1998s and remarkable 1999s augured wonderful things to come. 2000 was a challenge, occasionally risen to! 2001 kicks ass! In transition from the juicy forthright style of before to the streamlined clarity of the steely now. Alexander will do good things.


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Gysler 2014 Weinheimer Riesling Kabinett “Feldgeflüster”

It means “whispering fields,” and I just know you’re going to call for it starting in about 2023, when you figure out how it’s pronounced. It does have a Mel Brooksian ring to it. The wine was 78º Oechsle and has 8% Silvaner to lower the acidity without intervening technologically to do so. It’s more wholesome and less spiky than it has been, even from riper years.