Big changes afoot as son Alexander Gysler takes control. The new wines are slimmed down, streamlined and modernized, jazzy and full of crispy, primary fruit. Prices, though, remain un-real for the time being! Eye-opening 1998s and remarkable 1999s augured wonderful things to come. 2000 was a challenge, occasionally risen to! 2001 kicks ass! In transition from the juicy forthright style of before to the streamlined clarity of the steely now. Alexander will do good things.
And the best-ever vintage of it. Normally this is an extremely low-pH (and thus acid-driven) Riesling, which receives a generous sweetness in order to balance its steely structure. It succeeds by juxtaposing the two extremes in a high-tension dance. But in ’10 there’s a whole other layer of richness and fruit, and serious depth; the fruit is euphoric and not merely arch; key lime, aloe, balsam and kirsch, charming sponti aromas, almost Mosel like. Always a good value, this zooms above its long-term norm in this bizarre yet compelling vintage.
On the money; kirsch and wisteria aromas with top notes of lemon zest and tarragon; the palate veers green, it’s less stiff than usual; wintergreen and ozone and Braeburn apples, but the final finish is stone again.
Again a sponti, and in every way this wine is moving in the right direction: drier, more mid-palate juiciness, flavors pulling in rather than pushing out to the edges of the sweetness-acidity tension, i.e., to the whole flavor as a Whole, and not an equation of components. Spiced apple, pink pepper, carob; charming kirsch-y finish that implies a salty aside.
The 2012 of this was like wine in the form of giggling helplessly. This ’13, while both creamier and tangier than its sibling Silvaner, hasn’t quite the angular wit of that amazing ’12, though it redeems itself with redcurrant and cherry blossom aromas. It may just need a lot of oxygen. Scheu can be elusive…
CORE-LIST WINE. Now 100% estate-bottled (Demeter!), and this is a crisp, fine and charming vintage of this perennial value, showing a curious length. Among the best vintages of a wine I’ve known for nearly thirty years(!) ~Terry Theise