Heidi Schröck has managed her family’s estate since 1983, and produces wines in her hometown of Rust of impeccable quality. In 2003 she was awarded “Falstaff Vintner of the Year”, making her one of only a handful of women to be obtain this distinction. Her estate encompasses 10 hectares where she grows Weissburgunder, Furmint, Muscat, Grauburgunder, Welschriesling, Zweigelt and Blaufränkish. Heidi has a deep respect for the cultural traditions of the region and is credited with resuscitating Ruster Ausbruch, the noble sweet wine of Neusiedlersee. The family motto states that tradition should be honored but also mixed with progress; for it means keeping alive the fire, not adoring the ashes.
As always, all barrique, ambient-yeast, long lees contact,malo not blocked (though also not encouraged), and this ’09 was oddly mute inMay ’10.Maybe just unfinished. It was adamantly smoky and not showing its usual leathery sweetness. If past is prologue, it will come around, and when it does you’ll have an oaky wine you can respect yourself for loving.
Deep botrytis gold already showing flecks of amber Heady aromas and a solid baroque sweetness that anchors like an old heavy honey. At home we have a chestnut liqueur that smells like this; sometimes we glaze carrots with it. You can almost start to think of that red-cow Reggiano, which you could also grate over your carrots. ~Terry Theise
This Pinot Blanc & Welschriesling cuvée is among the steadiest wines I offer; this vintage may be a little higher in acidity,may have slightly more definition, but in general it just climbs on the train and rides. ~Terry Theise
Classic and typical aromas of linden and chamomile, and also a delicate vanilla; on the palate it behaves like Riesling, salty and vertical and with nuances of hyssop, all this with a definite chalky backdrop, stretchy and sinewy but ripe and floral. Incredibly lovely, wonderfully interesting wine. By the way, Heidi contemplates whether to put this wine back under cork, as Furmint can show reduction otherwise. ~Terry Theise
(Awaiting tasting notes)
A classic Heidi moving-target wine, as the vintage compels. This one has a sweetheart aroma, the most loving face of ’14, plum-blossom and good tisane. It claws a little on the palate, with a gravelly texture and (this time) marked acidity; thready and papery, it’s a studious wine, not a party-girl. We bought all the rest of the ’13, not because it was “better,” but to give this ’14 the time it needs. ~Terry Theise
I drank a Furmint from another Rust grower a few nights after tasting this. It was fresh and modern and more oaky than I preferred. Heidi’s wine is temperamental, sometimes obscure, always entailing a certain taking of risk. This ’15 shows the spicy face of the variety, wick-smoke and ginger; the florals are rare and exotic, as if you’re in a grove of flowering trees in a new place you’ve never been. Or if some new herb was growing in your garden. It was all somewhat indefinite, and with air it seemed both to clarify but also to become more curious. My standards for these sorts of things are very high; this would pass muster easily in the natural-wine matrix; indeed some of those drinkers might find it too “correct.” ~Terry Theise
This offers a kind of Platonic perfection of a Heidi-Muscat. I wrote it was “ladylike,” with lots of linden and chamomile. It only seemed diffident; it comes back in about fifteen seconds and then occupies your palate with a delicious vapor of rosewater and quince and mango. In part it’s a grown up wine for grown up palates yet the flavors bring a pure animal bliss, even to a child. Especially if you are a child. Not too cold please. It’s the kind of wine that doesn’t approach directly but instead surrounds you. ~Terry Theise
It’s our polyglot friend! Lagrein, Teroldego, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Cab-Sauv comprise the cuvée, and the wine is richer than many Jura reds (and less icky than most of them); this is juicy and serious and rad—even stern. It’s a country wine made by a woman who’s comfy in the city also. ~Terry Theise
This is closer to the woodsy breadth of her Grauburgunders than to the sometimes-lean stony critter it’s been before. It’s especially chalky and scallop-y, markedly generous and leesy and not at all cerebral. More overt, more explicit. Knowing Heidi, it just came out this way this year. ~Terry Theise