Don’t like sqeaky-clean, reductive wines? Step right up! Amazing values for chewy, ample wines with old-fashioned meat on ‘em. They are among the highlights in every vintage. Satisfying, is how they taste! Look, I adore those filigree delineated wines, you know I do, but after five days of tasting them it starts to feel like work. They demand study. With the first hit-o-Hiedler the palate sits up with a jolt: “Is there a party? Sure feels like it!” Yet within their succulent density is all the complexity you could wish for. They’re the thinking-man’s wine porno!

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Hiedler 2014 Riesling “Urgestein”

Core List Wine. Notably firmer than the GVs; all snap peas and balsam, quite impressive if just a little elusive after the first attack. But! Ten minutes in the glass helped it find its green groove, and showed all the balsam and hyssop of this super cool Riesling. I showed it to a wait staff in Boston recently, and no one had ever tasted anything like it, or ever supposed there could be anything like it. “This is Riesling??” Ah yup. ~Terry Theise