Erstwhile cellar-master at Selbach-Oster until father’s illness called him back home. Thus: Selbach methods at off-the-beaten-track prices conspire to create excellent wines and incredible values. This is an estate that excels in high-acid vintages: 1994, 1996, 1998, now the 2001s. They’re always good and always an incredible value, but in years that suit them they become unbelievable value.

I’m having trouble keeping the wines in stock, and this year will be no exception. There seems to be a market for steep-slope Mosels with ravishing vivacity at insanely low prices; go figure! As a rule, Kinheimers tend to run light but true, attractive appley flavors with typical minerality. Other than a small section of the Rosenberg, directly behind the town, there isn’t a Grand Cru slope here. But Erich’s wines excel by sheer v i t a l i t y; they’re upbeat, vivid wines, exuberant and Spring-y.

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