Up-and-comer the past few years, making more glamorous wines than ever before. Deft, appley and minerally wines from the greatest sites of the lower Nahe. Priced quite reasonably for blue-chip quality. They’re still built on a sturdy frame of acidity and soil-flavors, but they have opened the floodgates of richness, and heavenly choirs sing. The PITTERSBERGS are still nutty and slatey, the KAPELLENBERGS are still apple-y and slatey, the DAUTENPFLÄNZERS are still complex and multi-faceted, with all the intricacies of real Grand Cru style, but the fabric is finer now. You know the hoary old truism about Nahe wines being a cross between Mosel and Rheingau? When you taste these you’ll see the truth behind the cliché.
One lot from a mid-slope parcel with loess. Some sponti, exceptionally creamy, magnificent complexity and stature; spicy length, pear crystals and Parm crystals and candied violets. The parcel is called “Rosa” after a former owner, and is the steepest section of the vineyard. Rumpf ’s wines are sometimes cheetahs, but this one is a lioness. Münsterer Dautenpflänzer is composed of slate and sandy loam and is one of Kruger-Rumpf’s top sites. Multi-faceted and complex, this GG site is one of the leading Grand Crus of the lower Nahe, with a typical mélange of soil types within its borders.
Everything a great lower-Nahe Riesling ought to be. Stature, exotic flavors, noble richness and layering of nuances, and an animate yin-yang between citric tang and gingery quince-like spice. ~Terry Theise
So discreet as to be almost hidden, and more a lovely tangy Riesling-variant than a full-throttle Scheu. Hints of grapefruit and sage augur perhaps a kinkier future. Or so one hopes. ~Terry Theise
It takes some tasting to blend a wine like this. It has to express the domain, and without compromising it has to be fundamentally pleasing. We started from a base of slate-soils (Pittersberg and Liebehöll) and while the wine was acceptable, we felt it could exclude tasters who don’t share our taste for slim stony Rieslings. So we blended it with 50% of the next wine, which made it a lot richer and with more of the pulp of the fruit; less austere by far, and with more spice, verve and animation. That was our goal, and how we reach it will vary year by year—as it should! ~Terry Theise
This year it’s all quince! We reduced the rs (from 48 to 41 g/l) and now it’s a drink-the-whole-damn-bottle wine, perfectly balanced, no “sugar” to speak of. Just wonderful refreshing complex and balanced. ~Terry Theise