Passy-Grigny is a village on the river Marne just a few kilometers to the west of Epernay which boasts a co-op that ranks with Mailly and Le Mesnil as among the elect few in Champagne. And our man M. Lequart just happens to be its President! Properly speaking, then, this producer is a Recoltant-Co-operateur. That is to say, he delivers his grapes to the co-op which then delivers back to him a quantity of wine commensurate with them. It took us a while to fully grasp the complexities of this mechanism, and we admit to some scepticism about it, but all doubts were banished by the undeniable splendor of the wines, that have a torque and clarity of the highest order. This is a tiny domaine offering important champagnes.
We snapped up everything we could of this imposing vintage wine with its unusual composition. Great years like 2008 benefit immeasurably from extended aging on the lees, such as this one received before its disgorgement in January 2016.
(50% Chardonnay, 50% Meunier)
Our reservations about the growing trend towards undosed wines were entirely banished by the swaggering authority of this wine, the only pure Pinot Noir made in Passy-Grigny. Based on 70% 2013, the balance again coming from the previous two years, it is a suave, vinous yet chiseled champagne of very high class. (100% Pinot Noir)
This house has a philosophy of leaving the wines “en tirage” for an extended period and using a serious proportion of reserve wines. In this case, we are looking at a base of 60% 2012, with the balance coming from the two previous years. “L’Heritiere” is Lequart’s ambassadorial wine, designed to show what the assemblage of Champagne’s three main grapes can achieve in Passy-Grigny (they make an entry-level Meunier that is excellent but less compelling). Fine mousse, toasty nose, perfectly judged dosage (6 gm.) and delicious flavor. (40% Pinot Noir, 40% Meunier, 20% Chardonnay)