Messmer

Superbly made wines, exceptional clarity and polish in a keenly etched and chiseled style. Has soared ahead to take its place among the best estates in the Pfalz the last few years. Sure-handed with a multitude of grape varieties. What unites them is CLARITY and SPECIFICITY. Gregor’s careful, diligent style seems to allow us to examine the fruit of his wines as though under a microscope. This must be the most honorable way to make wine. Everyone knows how to make bombshells—it’s facile and plausible—but the tender, delicate rendering of varietal fruit denotes a respect for the grape which only shows when you’re nature’s humble servant and not concerned with being a hot-shot. Gregor’s wines have an exactitude that satisfies my desire for seeing things clearly.

Producer website

GMS SCHEU XX

Available Wines

Messmer 2006 Schiefer Riesling Kabinett trocken

Messmer 2008 Burrweiler Altenforst Rieslaner Auslese [12/500ml]

It’s not that this Auslese is a lesser wine; it is a sweeter wine, a riper wine, and its stunning implacable power is comprehensible, whereas the Spätlese shows more fever and buzz than you ever see in its echelon. A year from now I may well think I was silly hedging a plus here, but honestly, I wasn’t sure you’d believe me if I assigned the third, tempting as it was. . . . My elder readers might well recall Norman Mailer’s essay on sex on LSD. They’ll know what I mean when I describe Rieslaners like these as psychedelic eros. This wine puts on fuck-me shoes and dances on your brain.

Messmer 2009 Riesling halbtrocken [12/1000ml]

The ’08, which we’ll offer while it lasts, is a studious, chiseled and refreshing everyday Riesling, while the ’09 is more muscular and roasty. Both are impeccably balanced.

Messmer 2011 Riesling Kabinett feinherb ‘Muschelkalk’

It means fossil-bearing-limestone, not what you think it means.

Messmer 2012 Pinot Noir [12/1000]

This is the same wine offered last year as “Pinot Noir,” because to Gregor’s and my mutual surprise, y’all said you liked “Spätburgunder” better. So rawk on, umlaut-whores. The wine’s still very good, the best vintage yet; herbal, sweet, smoky, even some intensity, and as you know very well it does the job as a Pour. And it will get us through the year..  ~Terry Theise

Messmer 2013 Riesling Kabinett feinherb ‘Muschelkalk’

CORE-LIST WINE. Muschelkalk means “fossil-bearing-limestone.”  A spicy Riesling awaits, but we were very early to this party at the time of our tasting.  ~Terry Theise

Messmer 2013 Scheurebe feinherb [12/1000]

This was the 4th Scheu producer I visited, and the first wine that really reeked of Scheurebe. And as you know, if it doesn’t reek it doesn’t speak. So, definite grapefruit and sage, and the lovely subtle tang of RS takes it into woodruff and balsam, and while the palate is less effusive, it’s long, silky and wry.  ~Terry Theise

Messmer 2014 Burrweiler Schäwer Riesling Spätlese

This is the vineyard that first brought me here, the only slate site between the lower Nahe and Andlau in Alsace. It can easily be tasted, though it’s nothing like a Mosel wine. You pronounce it like “shaver.” The final blend is pending, but this wine acknowledges (for once) the not uncommon practice of blending a couple per-cent of Rieslaner into a Riesling to turbo-charge it. It reminded me of Nigl’s Piri; salt, verbena, tarragon, lemon rind; racy and brilliant, and zingy, not opulent. But impressive.  ~Terry Theise

Messmer 2014 Riesling Kabinett feinherb “Muschelkalk”

Sommelier Alert! | Core List Wine
Muschelkalk – It means fossil-bearing limestone. And this is fantastic, all the mineral in creation in a perfectly rendered food-lovin’ Riesling.  ~Terry Theise