Champagnes of marvelous purity and focus in the heart of the Côte de Blancs. They have that pencil-y minerality beneath the loveliest imaginable fruit. They are truly exquisite wines. Just don’t miss them. Prices are amazingly reasonable and availability is better than you’d expect from a small domain.
The 2009 ‘Selection Terres de Noel’ Brut is 100% Chardonnay. The wine underwent malolactic fermentation and did not see any oak before spending 40 months sur latte. ‘Selection Terres de Noel’ is made exclusively from a single parcel of Chardonnay called Terres de Noel in the Cotes des Blancs. The vines are over 70 years old.
Two wines were made (the other is a Rosé) to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the founding of the estate. The bottle’s in a funny kind of white wrapper, but the wine is sensational. Equal parts 08-09, some vinification in wood, and leaving everything extraneous aside, it’s a stirring and inspirational Côte des Blancs, and as gorgeous as Oger could ever be. ~Terry Theise
‘Grande Reserve 1864’ is a blend of 100% Chardonnay from the 2003 and 2004 vintages. The wine is aged in used oak barriques, and spends over eight years sur latte. The ‘Grande Reserve 1864’ is made of Chardonnay from Oger. ~Terry Theise
The label is a portrait of a woman, Caroline’s great grandmother as a young wife, painted by her happy husband, Caroline’s grandfather, who baby-sat Caroline when she was a little girl. Caroline created the cuvée as a tribute to them both, this lovely adorable wine, formed in the pure love of a small girl. Half-half ’06-’07 (it’s the same base as the Brut Spéciale); disgorged 2/10, and drier than before with 18g rs the upper limit for Halbtrocken in Germany, and just 3g sweeter than many commercial Brut N.V.s from big negoçes. The wine is 1-of-a-kind and ought to have a wider following. In essence it’s Nahe-Riesling avec fizz; iris and tarragon and lots of purple flavor; zingy and fresh, refined and full of finesse and delicacy. What it is NOT is any-old-wine loaded up with sugar. In effect you use this as you would a Kabinett wine; it even has hyacinth and wisteria notes, and lavender on the finish. Plus brioche and acacia-honey, with a suave sweet lick of hivebuzz. Where else can you get a sweet Champagne that’s 100% Grand Cru, apart from Selosse? I will be drinking lots of this and I have more testosterone than the entire World Wrestling Federation, so there. ~Terry Theise