Nikolaihof

Organic, bio-dynamic winery whose wines express the earth, the whole earth and nothing but the earth. Nikolaihof’s wines are often incredibly thick, dense and uncompromisingly stony in character. Do you know the Clos de Goisses Champagne from Philipponat? Not the most charming Champagne on the market, but surely among the most PROFOUND, and capable of enthralling development with long aging. Same here; JUST GIVE THESE WINES TIME. They’ll do everything for you that great wine can do, if you are patient. Early on you’ll easily see their sheer intensity, but specific details can be lost in a monolith of concentration, an opacity that can be perplexing if you don’t know what’s ahead. Thus detailed tasting notes are difficult if you feel the need to delineate skeins of flavors with sequences of associations. Here you just stand on the prow and feel the wind and look at the swollen waves of vinosity and hope you aren’t swept overboard. And hope you are…

Nikolaihof label

Producer website

Available Wines

Nikolaihof 1997 Riesling ‘Vinothek’ [6/750]

Pending Tasting Notes…

Nikolaihof 2002 Riesling “Vom Stein” Federspiel [3/750]

“Steinriesler” is the archaic name for Riesling, adopted by the estate as an identity for long cask-aged wines of unexceptional ripeness. These will be very tiny quanities—bottles, not cases. The cask-aged one is like the very greatest sous-voile wine you ever drank. It’s more recherché than the ’99 or ’98, which were simply walnutty and estery. The regular Federspiel, basically the in-bottle version of the Steinriesler, is a perfect mature ’02, plummy and suave and lick-your-chops savory and salty. ~Terry Theise

Nikolaihof 2010 Riesling Steiner Hund ‘Reserve’ [6/750]

Among all the Rieslings I know, this one has the most esoteric mélange of herbs and minerals. Curious and cunning, it has the oxidative note these have recently had, along with the firm smoky adamance of ’10, and that chartreuse-y herbal thing and the arcane vineyard-geology thing, and ’10’s mulish length, getting almost fiercely spicy with five minutes in the glass. ~Terry Theise

Nikolaihof 2012 Riesling Vom Stein Federspiel

Adorable aromas of quince and currant leaf lead into a lively spicy fennel-y palate. The direct attack is really, ah, striking. Though they didn’t design it, of course. It’s like tatsoi leaves you eat from the bag.

Nikolaihof 2013 Riesling Vom Stein Federspiel

Smells like cookie dough! Also notably woodsy, and then the Riesling spice and brightness kicks in; verbena, shiso, bay leaf and an echo-note of marrowy cask. Has complete repose but isn’t at all slack, and the finish peals and clings. ~Terry Theise

Nikolaihof 2014 Grüner Veltliner Im Weingebirge Federspiel [12/750]

Draw-you-in aromas, like the famous salad-of-seventeen-leaves, herbs and flowers they serve in the restaurant. All of them perfect. The palate here emphasizes the mustards, with the ’14 snap and bounce and spice; a lacy wine like the veins and tracings on the bottom of a leaf.  ~Terry Theise

Nikolaihof 2014 Grüner Veltliner “Hefeabzug”

Core List Wine
Cherry blossom, anise, flint; zingy with dense minty mineral’ as with a lot of ‘14s it’s ostensibly light but curiously dense, jammed with flavor.  ~Terry Theise

Nikolaihof N.V. Hollerblutensirup