Organic, bio-dynamic winery whose wines express the earth, the whole earth and nothing but the earth. Nikolaihof’s wines are often incredibly thick, dense and uncompromisingly stony in character. Do you know the Clos de Goisses Champagne from Philipponat? Not the most charming Champagne on the market, but surely among the most PROFOUND, and capable of enthralling development with long aging. Same here; JUST GIVE THESE WINES TIME. They’ll do everything for you that great wine can do, if you are patient. Early on you’ll easily see their sheer intensity, but specific details can be lost in a monolith of concentration, an opacity that can be perplexing if you don’t know what’s ahead. Thus detailed tasting notes are difficult if you feel the need to delineate skeins of flavors with sequences of associations. Here you just stand on the prow and feel the wind and look at the swollen waves of vinosity and hope you aren’t swept overboard. And hope you are…
Pending Tasting Notes…
Among all the Rieslings I know, this one has the most esoteric mélange of herbs and minerals. Curious and cunning, it has the oxidative note these have recently had, along with the firm smoky adamance of ’10, and that chartreuse-y herbal thing and the arcane vineyard-geology thing, and ’10’s mulish length, getting almost fiercely spicy with five minutes in the glass. ~Terry Theise
Adorable aromas of quince and currant leaf lead into a lively spicy fennel-y palate. The direct attack is really, ah, striking. Though they didn’t design it, of course. It’s like tatsoi leaves you eat from the bag.
Smells like cookie dough! Also notably woodsy, and then the Riesling spice and brightness kicks in; verbena, shiso, bay leaf and an echo-note of marrowy cask. Has complete repose but isn’t at all slack, and the finish peals and clings. ~Terry Theise
Draw-you-in aromas, like the famous salad-of-seventeen-leaves, herbs and flowers they serve in the restaurant. All of them perfect. The palate here emphasizes the mustards, with the ’14 snap and bounce and spice; a lacy wine like the veins and tracings on the bottom of a leaf. ~Terry Theise
Core List Wine
Cherry blossom, anise, flint; zingy with dense minty mineral’ as with a lot of ‘14s it’s ostensibly light but curiously dense, jammed with flavor. ~Terry Theise