An estate both admired and beloved within Austria, for hearty yet focused whites and sumptuous deeply structured reds, both of which are undergoing certain deft transitions; the whites more primary (i.e., less malo) and the reds more succulent (i.e., fewer gravelly tannins). ~Terry Theise
“What’s “Leithaberg?” A range of low hills behind the north shore of the lake (Neusidl, the shallow one), dividing “Pannonia” from the Viennese plain. Aircraft on their glide-paths landing to the north fly right over it at low altitude. It’s also the name of the local appellation, or “DAC” and before that it was a Brand created by a group of (12, I think) growers, who wanted a name for separate cuvées made in order to show minerality, from the limestony soils of these hillsides. ” Terry Theise
CORE LIST WINE.
This is minty and black, very clear and peppery, less gushing and succulent than ’12 but a lot of graphite, stewed tomato and rosemary. Tannin got in my way a little, but Georg promised “with my hand in the fire” that the wine would be its customary juicy self by bottling. ~Terry Theise
This single-site wine is the entry-level, and is usually a fruit-forward albeit typically cracked-pepper rendition. The ’14 shows a high point of BF pepper and the char-marks on grilled red meat. It has a lot of the Leithaberg in it—the ’14 reds are all upgraded by Georg’s decision not to bottle his two Grand Crus—the vintage was small and laborious. The tank-sample I tasted was ready to bottle; it’s more brooding and earnest than usual, more dark iron but also greater length. It’s an upgrade for sure, but it isn’t the usual gushing beauty. ~Terry Theise
Fantastic dicht and kick; sweet fruit to the mid-palate and then the ’14 extracts ride a wave of vigorous acidity into a white-tea leesy-stony finish. Animated, squirming flavor in three acts—and the hero gets the girl. ~Terry Theise