Reuscher-Haart

Something seems to be up at Reuscher Haart. Maybe it’s the influence of Bernd and Mario Schwang, Dad Hugo’s two sons (who look like members of Limp Bizkit) or maybe it’s just one of those things. In any case, the past two vintages reminded me of the majestic 1990s and brilliant 1993s. At their best one can see why their wines are held in such renown. Schwang’s wines can have impressive, almost majestic corpulence without being fat, plus a positive depth and stuffing from the lees. When that happens the Piesport fruit shows its raison d’être; an almost lurid court bouillon of bewitching fragrances and flavors; patchouli, passion fruit, bergamot, mango. And all in a voodoo voluptuousness that’s the wine equivalent of an erotic trance. We should have to get our parents’ permission before drinking them. My parents would have refused!

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Available Wines

Reuscher-Haart 2009 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett

This has grip, but it’s more a hammer-blow than a chisel-cut, as the ’08 was. It seems sweeter than ’08, but this may be a function of its acidity. Look, honestly; be glad you can still get the ’08 – it’s by far the nicer drink right now, and by the time we get to this – maybe early in 2011, it will have found its grace.

Reuscher-Haart 2010 Piesporter Riesling [12/1000ml]

Quite a nice fragrance! Has the brassica of ’10 and more fruit than this normally shows – actually this is the best it has ever been, appley and long, perfectly balanced and delightful

Reuscher-Haart 2012 Piesporter Riesling [12/1000]

With the concentration of the vintage, this peachy little guy has ideas above his station. I like its candid gushing style. The Roman poet Ausonius described Piesport as a natural amphitheatre covered with vines and since the Roman times Piesport has been regarded as a high quality wine producing area.

Reuscher-Haart 2014 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett

Tasting notes not available…

Reuscher-Haart 2014 Piesporter Riesling [12/1000]

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Reuscher-Haart 2015 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett

The best vintage—by far—since 2012. This has a many-layered density, true richness and not just voodoo fruit, and the pebbly phenolics are helpful. Markedly long, like passion fruit, chestnut, and in this vintage, a big swell of mineral.