Something seems to be up at Reuscher Haart. Maybe it’s the influence of Bernd and Mario Schwang, Dad Hugo’s two sons (who look like members of Limp Bizkit) or maybe it’s just one of those things. In any case, the past two vintages reminded me of the majestic 1990s and brilliant 1993s. At their best one can see why their wines are held in such renown. Schwang’s wines can have impressive, almost majestic corpulence without being fat, plus a positive depth and stuffing from the lees. When that happens the Piesport fruit shows its raison d’être; an almost lurid court bouillon of bewitching fragrances and flavors; patchouli, passion fruit, bergamot, mango. And all in a voodoo voluptuousness that’s the wine equivalent of an erotic trance. We should have to get our parents’ permission before drinking them. My parents would have refused!
The best vintage—by far—since 2012. This has a many-layered density, true richness and not just voodoo fruit, and the pebbly phenolics are helpful. Markedly long, like passion fruit, chestnut, and in this vintage, a big swell of mineral.