Schloss Gobelsburg

New life breathed into an old monastic estate, with Willi Bründlmayer as consultant. The wines are excellent VALUES while Michael “Michi” Moosbrugger consolidates his reputation. They won’t always be so. It’s beginning to look like Martin Nigl is Moosbrugger’s aesthetic soul-brother, though Michi’s wines are just a little more fluid in texture. But they’re both diligently precise in their detailing of flavor; they both speak flavor with careful diction. His special genius seems to lie in the making of very pretty fine-grained wines at the “low” end of his range—no small gift. And some of the wines offered below are some of the finest in all this offering.  ~ Terry Theise


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Available Wines

Schloss Gobelsburg 2004 Brut “R.D.” [6/750]

I didn’t taste it; I only know it’ll be the next one, and that the 2001 was magical, so I’m offering it sight-unseen and I know I’ll be glad that I did. ~Terry Theise

Schloss Gobelsburg 2014 Gobelsburger Grüner Veltliner

Schloss Gobelsburg 2014 Grüner Veltliner Lamm [6×750]

Sensational fragrance! Richly, sweetly LAMM. The palate is taut, powerful, markedly spicy; it’s the 2006 this most resembles yet the alc is much lower, between 13-13.5%. Early days yet for this.

Lamm as a rule is buckwheat-y, rusky, savory but not thick, like a vegetable-veal stock with barley, yet oddly also like lamb itself. (“Lamm” doesn’t mean lamb, but is rather a dialect word for “loam.”) It is a great wine though virtually without fruit per se. Its poise of gloss and power, intensity and outline, mass and transparency are emblems of the paradox without which no wine is truly great.

Schloss Gobelsburg 2014 Grüner Veltliner Renner [6/750]

The site lies at the foot of the Gaisberg on eroded gneiss with a high proportion of paragneiss, mica and amphibolite, under a topsoil layer of loess. So you get a lot of fruit and a lot of minerality and a lot of ripeness—and a heaving TON of value-for-money.

It was the best GV I tasted from 2014, though part of me wonders whether it was simply more available to the palate than the famously tardy Lamm. We shall see.

Meanwhile, this is shimmeringly, phosphorescently, gorgeously mineral. Can this “mineral” flavor be delicious. Seductive? Oh baby! It’s not without fruit; you have corn and spring-onion here, fritters and beigneits, violets and hyacinth; it has both impressive mass and the most filigree possible detail. What a wine!!

Schloss Gobelsburg N.V. Brut Reserve

I have enjoyed bamboozling my friends when I serve them this blind; they are certain I’d be serving them Champagne, me being me and all, and they wrack their brains trying to figure out varieties and sub-districts but they are sure the wine in their glass is Champagne, i.e., they don’t promptly conclude ‘This can’t possibly be Champagne’.

In fact I think it’s the best non-Champagne fizz I’ve tasted, and wonderfully it is nothing like Champagne –- mostly GV with little bits of Riesling and SL-PN. It’s now assembled from 2010 with 2009 reserve wine, and it’s beautifully salty, angular and herbal; classy, with a really clinging length on the side-palate; there’s a tic of phenol (from ’10) but the base wine is perhaps the most interesting yet deployed. ~Terry Theise

Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg 2015 Rosé [Gobelsburger] (Kamptal)

Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg 2015 Zweigelt [Gobelsburger] (Kamptal)

This is the negoç label, and this wine is in essence the red equivalent of the GV y’all love so much. It’s cool, dusty, with supissome fruit, and is basically everything you’d hope for—yet it’s got some grip and is not merely fruity. – Terry Theise