Schloss Gobelsburg

New life breathed into an old monastic estate, with Willi Bründlmayer as consultant. The wines are excellent VALUES while Michael “Michi” Moosbrugger consolidates his reputation. They won’t always be so. It’s beginning to look like Martin Nigl is Moosbrugger’s aesthetic soul-brother, though Michi’s wines are just a little more fluid in texture. But they’re both diligently precise in their detailing of flavor; they both speak flavor with careful diction. His special genius seems to lie in the making of very pretty fine-grained wines at the “low” end of his range—no small gift. And some of the wines offered below are some of the finest in all this offering.  ~ Terry Theise

AZZ-070

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Available Wines

Schloss Gobelsburg 2004 Brut “R.D.” [6/750]

I didn’t taste it; I only know it’ll be the next one, and that the 2001 was magical, so I’m offering it sight-unseen and I know I’ll be glad that I did. ~Terry Theise

Schloss Gobelsburg 2013 Grüner Veltliner ‘Tradition’ [6/75 and 6/1500]

This struck me as the best since the all-time-great 2008, though I see I also assigned three plusses to the 2012. I get passionate. It’s markedly sleek for this wine; you feel it would need another 3-4 years in cask to even start feeling tertiary. No, I’m not blinded by passion; this is life-altering wine, perhaps the best GV I have ever had, a Montrachet among GVs. At first heartrendingly slim and delicate, and then the power and spiciness grows and swells, and all with the baked doughy sweetness of bread you’re just pulling from the oven. ~Terry Theise

Schloss Gobelsburg 2013 Riesling ‘Tradition’ [6/750 & 6/1500]

I think that the basic material—in this case old-vines Gaisberg—was so precise and so expressive in 2013 that it has (up to now) resisted the tertiary development of the old-school cellar regime. Which is to say, the wine is sensationally beautiful, a supernal thing in the making, with each facet of great Gaisberg but just the bare beginnings of the warm sweet woodsy thing these wines are “meant” to do. It is brilliant, but is brilliance what we seek from this wine? Perhaps ’13 will simply be an outlier in the sequence, or maybe it holds reserves of something currently obscure. Holding its breath and waiting. I am vehemently curious to taste it again…

Schloss Gobelsburg 2014 Gobelsburger Grüner Veltliner

Schloss Gobelsburg 2014 Grüner Veltliner Lamm [6×750]

Sensational fragrance! Richly, sweetly LAMM. The palate is taut, powerful, markedly spicy; it’s the 2006 this most resembles yet the alc is much lower, between 13-13.5%. Early days yet for this.

Lamm as a rule is buckwheat-y, rusky, savory but not thick, like a vegetable-veal stock with barley, yet oddly also like lamb itself. (“Lamm” doesn’t mean lamb, but is rather a dialect word for “loam.”) It is a great wine though virtually without fruit per se. Its poise of gloss and power, intensity and outline, mass and transparency are emblems of the paradox without which no wine is truly great.

Schloss Gobelsburg 2014 Grüner Veltliner Renner [6/750]

The site lies at the foot of the Gaisberg on eroded gneiss with a high proportion of paragneiss, mica and amphibolite, under a topsoil layer of loess. So you get a lot of fruit and a lot of minerality and a lot of ripeness—and a heaving TON of value-for-money.

It was the best GV I tasted from 2014, though part of me wonders whether it was simply more available to the palate than the famously tardy Lamm. We shall see.

Meanwhile, this is shimmeringly, phosphorescently, gorgeously mineral. Can this “mineral” flavor be delicious. Seductive? Oh baby! It’s not without fruit; you have corn and spring-onion here, fritters and beigneits, violets and hyacinth; it has both impressive mass and the most filigree possible detail. What a wine!!

Schloss Gobelsburg N.V. Brut Reserve

I have enjoyed bamboozling my friends when I serve them this blind; they are certain I’d be serving them Champagne, me being me and all, and they wrack their brains trying to figure out varieties and sub-districts but they are sure the wine in their glass is Champagne, i.e., they don’t promptly conclude ‘This can’t possibly be Champagne’.

In fact I think it’s the best non-Champagne fizz I’ve tasted, and wonderfully it is nothing like Champagne –- mostly GV with little bits of Riesling and SL-PN. It’s now assembled from 2010 with 2009 reserve wine, and it’s beautifully salty, angular and herbal; classy, with a really clinging length on the side-palate; there’s a tic of phenol (from ’10) but the base wine is perhaps the most interesting yet deployed. ~Terry Theise

Schloss Gobelsburg N.V. Brut Reserve

The basis of this sparkling is derived of different varieties (Pinot Noir, Riesling, Gruner Veltliner) selected from different sites of the estate. Grapes from Heiligenstein, Gaisberg, Grub and Lamm are harvested at the right moment, laid in small boxes and are immediately pressed, whereby only the core of the basic wine is used. After six months of cask storage, it is bottled for the second fermentation. It then rests for about three years on the yeast, which contributes to the creamy texture, until it is hand riddled and then degorged.

Schloss Gobelsburg N.V. Brut Reserve (6/1500)

I have enjoyed bamboozling my friends when I serve them this blind; they are certain I’d be serving them Champagne, me being me and all, and they wrack their brains trying to figure out varieties and sub-districts but they are sure the wine in their glass is Champagne, i.e., they don’t promptly conclude ‘This can’t possibly be Champagne’.

In fact I think it’s the best non-Champagne fizz I’ve tasted, and wonderfully it is nothing like Champagne –- mostly GV with little bits of Riesling and SL-PN. It’s now assembled from 2010 with 2009 reserve wine, and it’s beautifully salty, angular and herbal; classy, with a really clinging length on the side-palate; there’s a tic of phenol (from ’10) but the base wine is perhaps the most interesting yet deployed. ~Terry Theise

Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg 2015 Grüner Veltliner [Gobelsburger] (Kamptal)

In a vintage as good as 2015 every wine punches above its weight, and even this GV stands easily among the excellent domain wines I offer elsewhere. It’s real loessy, lentils and tapioca; complex but rich and stylish; herbal, boxwood and legume, beans and butter and dill and a satisfying richness of texture. Maybe the best vintage ever?  ~Terry Theise

Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg 2015 Riesling [Gobelsburger] (Kamptal)

A “Hello!” aroma, linden and woodruff at first; a fine, snappy Riesling, grainy and sweetly taut; a pitted fruit nuance dances with shade-grown Sencha; this is lively energetic tasty Riesling.  ~Terry Theise

Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg 2015 Rosé [Gobelsburger] (Kamptal)

Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg 2015 Zweigelt [Gobelsburger] (Kamptal)

This is the negoç label, and this wine is in essence the red equivalent of the GV y’all love so much. It’s cool, dusty, with supissome fruit, and is basically everything you’d hope for—yet it’s got some grip and is not merely fruity. – Terry Theise

Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg 2016 Grüner Veltliner [Gobelsburger] (Kamptal)

In a vintage as good as 2015 every wine punches above its weight, and even this GV stands easily among the excellent domain wines I offer elsewhere. It’s real loessy, lentils and tapioca; complex but rich and stylish; herbal, boxwood and legume, beans and butter and dill and a satisfying richness of texture. Maybe the best vintage ever? –Terry Theise

Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg 2016 Rosé [Gobelsburger] (Kamptal)

For the Cistercien Rosé, the Zweigelt and  St. Laurent grape varieties grown in the  cooler sites of Gobelburg and Langenlois  are used. After the harvest, the grapes –  still with their stems – are softly pressed  and then fermented. This type of rosé is  somewhat similar to a white wine because  no acid reduction is used to emphasise  the fine fruity character with a streamlined  elegance. Its fragrance and fruit nuances  of wild cherry and fresh berries make this  Rosé an optimal universal food companion.