Rudi Schwarzböck assumed control of the winery from his father in 1994, though he says “1997 is really the first vintage I was happy with.” His wife Anita took her share of the reins in 2003, and the two function as a seamless team.
Weingut Schwarzböck is based in the village of Hagenbrunn, which is virtually at the city-line of Vienna. Thanks to its geologically unique location, it forms somewhat of a wine-growing island along the Danube River. The stony flysch, measuring just 50 m, extends across the Vienna Forest to the Bisamberg hill. This type of sandstone present on the steep slopes of the Bisamberg hill gives our wine a clear mineral flavor.
Regarding the wine itself, Terry notes:
“Theirs is a silky substance not unlike Gobelsburg, in fact. They’re not as creamy as Berger or Setzer; theirs is a more up-front palate dance. They make a quick and delightful impression.”
11.5% alc. Some delicate gooseberry but not unripe. Dark like ore and nettle; the body is curiously creamy yet superbly dry, not flowery. A curious equipoise between tension and repose. ~Terry Theise
He does know his stuff with this wine; like the ’12 this feints toward Blaufränkisch; hedge-berry more than tree fruit—at first. Then a riot of cerise in the middle, and the finish is a swoon of sweet cherry. For a mid-weight wine (think Cru Beaujolais) this has all kinds of length and seductiveness. This is just the kind of incredibly attractive red wine you’d be likely to miss if you only focused on “red-wine producers.” ~Terry Theise
Often among the best Muscats in this offering, this ’14 is slight but super-clean, honest, with excellent varietality, and not at all coarse as less-ripe GM often is. It’s like chewing a Thai-basil leaf. ~Terry Theise
Tasting notes not available at time of publication.
The wine is just fine, though very light and snappy. In a way this is what Liters should be; many previous vintages have ever delivered. ~Terry Theise
50-50 Zweigelt-Merlot, this has a lot of juice for a ’14, and enough vinosity for year-round drinking. Fruit runs to tomato-water and rhubarb and rose hips. Second year in a row of extra class with this wine. ~Terry Theise
Wanna see how good ’15 is? Taste this. It is perfect! Lentilly and snappy, a 2-class upgrade from a normal vintage. ~Terry Theise