The Strub family has been making wine in Germany’s Rheinhessen region since 1710. When Walter Strub assumed proprietorship of the estate in 1985, he became the 11th generation of his family to produce fine Riesling wines of international repute from their vineyards around Nierstein.
Born into a winemaking family, Walter Strub spent his childhood in and around the vineyards. After two apprenticeships at other estates in Baden and Rheinhessen, Walter went on to receive his degree in oenology from Germany’s famous viticultural institute in Geisenheim. Immediately after graduation in 1976, he returned to the family estate. Walter also spent time at the Simi winery in Napa Valley, California to expand his winemaking experience.
Walter and his wife Margit run the winery as a team, involving their young children in the process as well. Sebastian and Johannes are already helping their father in the vineyards, and Juliane especially enjoys it when she is allowed to taste the great wine her daddy makes.
These are pleasure-giving wines that are easy to “read” and understand. They taste like Saar or Nahe wines superimposed over the soils of Nierstein. They’re very often reductive and spritzy, complex and long.
CORE-LIST WINE. The vineyard is a paradox, a warm microclimate yet a cool soil (clay and limestone, slow to warm) gives ripe grapes with high acidity and low pH. The ’13 has three component parts, blended for depth, length and no great sweetness; it’s a little phenolic (in early March; bottling will tame this), shows some scents and flavors of corn chips (who doesn’t love corn chips??) and golden delicious apples, and a jab of acidity. ~Terry Theise
Classy this year. From the flat section of Hipping (favored in cool vintages), it shows apple, lime and woodruff in a bright and juicy palate. This is the perquisite of the Cru, and not just this Cru but the entire notion of “Cru;” the focus and precision and yet the long quince-like fruit. Think Chenin from Saumur plus Riesling from the Saar. ~Terry Theise
CORE-LIST WINE. The first vintage in some time to include wine from the red-slope Grand Crus; it’s 30% Brückchen, 30% Paterberg and 30% Hipping & Oelberg. A wonderful aroma; rye, lemon and prosciutto; solid, chewy vinosity, like sandalwood and Phô in a steel tube, or turkey thighs in a sauce with fennel fronds and honey mushrooms. A “brand” Riesling with grip and length. ~Terry Theise
85º oechsle; Strub’s GV, once an exceedingly rare novelty in Germany, is now a normal citizen of the cellar and landscape, and the older vines are starting to show what the variety is capable of. The ’14 even saw a little (5%) of Stückfass. There are fine typical aromas of vetiver and romanesco; the palate’s a bit herbal and even hints at super-fresh MacAvoy extra-virgin olive oil; much more overt and expressive than the ’13—it’s like a cross of the two Glatzers, regular and “reserve.” It tasted markedly better from a tulip-shape, BTW—I really am starting to dislike those Zaltos. ~Terry Theise
Core List Wine
The vineyard is a paradox, a warm microclimate yet a cool soil (slow-warming clay and limestone) gives ripe grapes with high acidity and low pH—this ’14 has 9.5 g/l acidity, for instance. The wine has the ’14 density and solidity, plus a tangy ginger and lemon-candy aspect; rs is moderate and the impact is aigre-doux, with juice, bite and snap, like a perfect salad dressing! ~Terry Theise
Core List Wine
The best bottling yet of a wine that seems to gain authority each year. Perfect balance, and continues a trend toward dryness that does it infinite good. Precise and zippy from the (vineyards) Paterberg and Brückchen; warm and savory from the Grand Cru slopes on red soil. ~Terry Theise