Julien is proudest of his red wines. And this is his latest assured essay at a “Natural” wine – six days of carbonic maceration, unfined, unfiltered and unsulfured. To describe it as “delicious” is to understate the indecently charming beauty of its varietal character. “Let us drink Fruits” is how the name translates – a little ponderous, perhaps, but entirely apt to the simple ambition of the wine. It has developed a devoted following in short order.